September 2022

Misiones- Floresta Atlantica

Located in northeastern Argentina, the province of Misiones is a natural and cultural gem. It is famous for the Iguazú Falls, one of the natural wonders of the world, and the lesser-known but impressive Moconá Falls. The Atlantic Forest of Misiones hosts exceptional biodiversity, including jaguars, toucans, and howler monkeys.

The Jesuit missions of San Ignacio Miní, a UNESCO World Heritage site, showcase the colonial history. The Guarani culture enriches the region with its traditions and crafts. Misiones offers a multitude of outdoor activities, from hiking to cultural visits, attracting nature lovers and adventurers. A true treasure to discover.


The Paraná flows through the bottom of an immense canyon whose walls, a hundred metres high, entomb the river. From the river banks, bordered with black towers of basalt, rises the equally black forest.

Ahead, on either side, behind, the endless mournful rock walls, at the bottom of which the rushing river flows in incessant bubbles of muddy water.

The landscape is fierce, and a deathly silence reigns over it.

At dusk, however, its calm and gloomy beauty exudes a singular majesty.”

ADRIFT BY HORACIO QUIROGA (1878-1937)

The Misiones rainforest is one of the best places in Argentina for birdwatching, hosting around 500 species. Among them are toucans, hummingbirds, manakins, tanagers, yacutingas, swifts, and crested eagles.

Birdwatching in the rainforest is not easy. It's best done at dawn or dusk, and if possible, with specialized guides who will help you spot many more species.

Accompanied by Will, a French expatriate living in Buenos Aires, I embarked on a journey through the province of Misiones, Argentina. Our goal: to explore this region, from southwest to northwest, then returning south through the east, in search of land suitable for reforestation or preservation of the Atlantic Forest, with the intention of establishing a private reserve.

Our adventure began when we arrived in Misiones by car, first crossing the fields of Mate grass before venturing into the lush subtropical forest. As I guided our journey through the province, we discovered numerous opportunities along the way.

Despite not having found the ideal land yet, we remained positive and optimistic about the many opportunities that Misiones had to offer.

Our quest continues, fueled by our determination to protect this precious ecosystem. We are confident that the right opportunity will present itself, and that our commitment to the preservation of the Atlantic Forest will bear fruit.


The Land Without Evil: The Terrestrial Paradise of the Guarani

The Land Without Evil" is the mythical terrestrial paradise of the Guarani people before the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors. Subsequently, the Society of Jesus, or Jesuits, established the 30 Jesuit towns or reductions, spread across what are now Paraguay, Brazil, and Argentina.

These reductions had a period of splendor where the Guarani inhabitants evoked the ancestral mythology of the "Land Without Evil", a land of abundance where they were protected from slave traders or bandeirantes and the Portuguese advance into Spanish territory. Finally, in 1776, the reductions came to an end due to constant attacks from the bandeirantes and the decision of the Spanish crown to expel the Society of Jesus from the Missions.

Of those 30 towns, San Ignacio Miní (founded by Father San Roque González de Santa Cruz in the early 17th century, currently a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1984), Santa María "La Mayor", Santos Mártires, Nuestra Señora de Santa Ana, Nuestra Señora de Loreto, San José, Concepción, Corpus, Candelaria, San Javier, and Apóstoles, among others, now constitute cities and towns in the Province of Misiones, inviting visitors, as part of their tourist slogans, to visit: "THE LAND WITHOUT EVIL".

During our journey, we began with a tourist stop in San Ignacio Miní to explore the Jesuit ruins. These iconic remnants, located in San Ignacio, Misiones Province, Argentina, date back to the early 17th century and were originally established to evangelize the Guarani natives. Despite facing challenges and relocating multiple times, San Ignacio Miní persevered and stands today as the best-preserved mission in Argentine territory.

Constructed with local red sandstone, the mission's walls still bear witness to its rich history. In 1984, it was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site along with other missions in the region. Visitors can immerse themselves in Guarani culture, admire authentic crafts, tour yerba mate plantations, and delve into the missions' history at an interpretation center in San Ignacio.


After recounting our first stop at the Jesuit ruins of San Ignacio, we continued our journey towards the south-central part of the province. As we ascended into the lush, rolling hills, the scenery grew increasingly picturesque. We took Route 8, winding our way through the verdant landscape towards the charming small town of Aristobulo del Valle.

Along the way, we passed several indigenous villages, their huts blending seamlessly into the natural surroundings. These villages offered a glimpse into a way of life deeply connected to the land, with residents living in harmony with the lush environment. The subtropical vegetation became denser as we progressed, enveloping us in a vibrant tapestry of greenery and wildlife.

The air was thick with the scent of blooming flowers and the sounds of birds and insects, creating a symphony of nature that was both soothing and invigorating. By the time we reached Aristobulo del Valle, we felt completely immersed in the natural beauty of Misiones.

That evening, we found refuge in a treehouse located at the entrance of the Salto Encantado Provincial Park. Nestled among the treetops, our accommodation offered a unique vantage point to observe the surrounding forest.

As the sun set, the forest came alive with the sounds of nocturnal creatures, adding to the enchantment of the setting.

We eagerly anticipated the next day's adventure, knowing that the Salto Encantado Provincial Park, with its stunning waterfalls and rich biodiversity, awaited us. Sleeping in the treehouse, we felt a deep connection to the natural world around us, a fitting end to a day filled with exploration and discovery.

The following morning, we woke up to the gentle rustling of leaves and the melodic calls of birds, ready to explore the wonders of Salto Encantado Provincial Park. After a hearty breakfast in our treehouse, we set out to discover what lay beyond the treetop canopy.

The park is renowned for its stunning waterfall, Salto Encantado, which means "Enchanted Falls." As we approached the falls, the sound of cascading water grew louder, building our anticipation. The trail leading to the waterfall was well-marked and surrounded by dense, subtropical vegetation. Towering trees, their branches entwined with vines, created a natural canopy overhead, providing welcome shade from the morning sun.

Upon reaching the viewpoint, we were greeted by the breathtaking sight of Salto Encantado. The waterfall plummeted over 60 meters into a deep, emerald pool below, sending up a mist that cooled the air around us. The sheer power and beauty of the falls were mesmerizing, and we spent a long time simply admiring the scene and taking photographs.

Afterward, we decided to explore some of the park's other trails. One of the highlights was the Sendero de la Selva, a trail that winds through the heart of the forest, offering glimpses of the diverse flora and fauna that thrive in this environment. We spotted colorful butterflies, exotic birds, and even a few curious monkeys swinging from branch to branch. The trail was well-maintained and included informative signs about the local ecosystem, enhancing our appreciation for the rich biodiversity of the region.

For lunch, we discovered a gem within the park – a superb restaurant that prides itself on exquisite cuisine made from local ingredients. The menu was a celebration of regional flavors and traditions. We indulged in ñoquis de mandioca, and surubí al ajillo con crema de remolachas e hinojos, a succulent river fish dish served with a creamy beetroot and fennel sauce. We also enjoyed mandioca frita, perfectly crispy fried cassava, and for dessert, we savored a delicacy made with the fruit of the yatay palm. Each dish was a testament to the rich culinary heritage of Misiones, and the meal was a highlight of our visit.

As the day drew to a close, we made our way back to the treehouse, feeling a deep sense of fulfillment and connection to nature. The experience at Salto Encantado Provincial Park had been truly enchanting, living up to its name in every way. The park's untouched beauty and serene atmosphere, combined with the exceptional culinary experience, left a lasting impression on us, reminding us of the importance of preserving such natural treasures for future generations to enjoy.

For lunch, we discovered a gem within the park – a superb restaurant that prides itself on exquisite cuisine made from local ingredients. The menu was a celebration of regional flavors and traditions. We indulged in ñoquis de mandioca, and surubí al ajillo con crema de remolachas e hinojos, a succulent river fish dish served with a creamy beetroot and fennel sauce. We also enjoyed mandioca frita, perfectly crispy fried cassava, and for dessert, we savored a delicacy made with the fruit of the yatay palm. Each dish was a testament to the rich culinary heritage of Misiones, and the meal was a highlight of our visit.

As the day drew to a close, we made our way back to the treehouse, feeling a deep sense of fulfillment and connection to nature. The experience at Salto Encantado Provincial Park had been truly enchanting, living up to its name in every way. The park's untouched beauty and serene atmosphere, combined with the exceptional culinary experience, left a lasting impression on us, reminding us of the importance of preserving such natural treasures for future generations to enjoy.

The next day, we continued our journey towards the Saltos del Moconá, passing through El Soberbio while traveling alongside the Uruguay River, right across from Brazil. The scenic drive offered stunning views of the river, with its wide, glistening expanse separating Argentina from Brazil. We spent the night in a cozy Posada just before reaching Moconá Provincial Park. The accommodations were charming, offering a comfortable and welcoming respite after a day of travel.

Our anticipation grew as we looked forward to exploring the unique longitudinal waterfalls of Moconá the following day, eager to witness another of Misiones' natural marvels.

The following morning, we were eager to discover the Moconá Falls. These unique longitudinal waterfalls stretch along the length of the river, creating a dramatic and breathtaking sight. We took a thrilling zodiac tour to get up close to the falls. The boat ride was exhilarating, the spray from the waterfalls refreshing as we navigated the choppy waters. Approaching the falls, we were struck by their sheer power and beauty. The boat guide expertly maneuvered us closer, allowing us to fully appreciate the scale and majesty of Moconá Falls.

On our way back from the park, we made a magnificent stop at the Mirador Yaboti Guazú. The viewpoint offered a stunning panorama of the jungle and the Uruguay River. As the sun began to set, the sky transformed into a canvas of vibrant colors, casting a golden glow over the dense canopy and the winding river below. It was a serene and awe-inspiring moment, perfect for reflecting on our day's adventures and the natural beauty that surrounded us. Watching the sunset from Mirador Yaboti Guazú was the perfect end to an incredible day, leaving us with memories we would cherish forever.

Our next adventure took us deep into the heart of the Yabotí Reserve, a truly wild and remote area in the midst of the Atlantic Forest. The journey to this pristine wilderness was challenging, requiring a 4x4 to navigate the rugged terrain. The dirt roads, characteristic of Misiones with their striking red hue, wound through dense jungle, flanked by towering trees and thick underbrush. The vibrant colors of the flora contrasted beautifully with the rich red earth, creating a stunning and unique landscape.

As we ventured further into the reserve, the sounds of civilization faded away, replaced by the symphony of the jungle: the calls of exotic birds, the rustle of leaves, and the distant roar of waterfalls. The air was thick with humidity and the scent of lush vegetation. Each turn of the road brought new surprises, from hidden streams to glimpses of wildlife darting through the undergrowth. This untouched part of Misiones offered a profound sense of isolation and connection to nature, making the arduous journey well worth it. The Yabotí Reserve is a testament to the raw, untamed beauty of the Atlantic Forest, a place where nature reigns supreme and adventurers are rewarded with unforgettable experiences.

As our journey through Misiones neared its end, we headed south, passing through vast fields of yerba mate surrounding the charming town of Apóstoles. Known as the yerba mate capital, Apóstoles welcomed us with its rich cultural heritage and warm hospitality. Our first stop was the Museo del Mate, where we delved into the history and significance of this iconic beverage. The museum offered fascinating insights into the traditional methods of cultivating and processing yerba mate, highlighting its importance in Argentine culture.

After our museum visit, we had the privilege of touring a small, artisanal yerba mate farm run by an 80-year-old woman and her son. They welcomed us warmly and guided us through the entire production process, from harvesting the leaves to the drying and grinding stages. The dedication and craftsmanship involved in their work were evident, and it was inspiring to see how traditional techniques have been preserved and passed down through generations.

We were treated to a tasting session, where we sipped on brewed mate, appreciating its robust flavor and the care that went into its creation. The experience was both educational and deeply personal, providing a deeper connection to the cultural and agricultural roots of Misiones. As we left Apóstoles, we carried with us not just the taste of yerba mate, but also the stories and warmth of the people who have kept this tradition alive.

Misiones - Floresta Atlantica

We trekked through dense jungle.

9/30/2022